Extra grosse Öffnung für Seile. This test (despite being as precise as I could manage) was also limited in scope and accuracy. Dabei seit 04.03.2006 Ort Braunschweig Beiträge 4.023. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. Petzl GriGri + Black Diamond ATC Guide. The uses for GriGris are not limited to these. If you’re climbing multipitch, get an ATC-Guide and don’t look back. This means if you make a purchase after clicking through one, at no extra cost to you we may earn a commission. Sportklettern: Petzl – GriGri Anfänger: Black Diamond – ATC Pilot Alpin: Edelrid – MegaJul Bester Tuber: Black Diamond – ATC Guide Jedes Sicherungsgerät setzt ein genaues Verständnis der Bedienung und ein detailliertes Sicherungstraining voraus. 1 color available. They’re safe, versatile, and powerful. Press enter for more information. The Petzl Grigri 2 Belay is a top pick of ours due to its construction. If you need to go completely hands-free while belaying in guide mode, you can tie-off the device.Simply form a loop in the brake strand and clip it to the rope. Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso 4. or. When you’re hangdogging up and down your project because you swear your new beta will work, your belayer will thank you. Wed, 25 Jun 2014 20:09:46 GMT. Contact Info. Press enter for more information. Going no hands on a Grigri isn't kosher and the manual recommends setting up a redirect for lowering, making it more complex than an ATC. Quick and easy to rap with making laps slightly more efficient. Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device. Petzl Gri Gri Plus. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. All in all, the Smart is a game changer—and if I had to only pick one device on the market to use for all the types of climbing it would be this one. Here are the conclusions. About Us. Which one should I get first? The GriGri + — Furnace Industries. Carabiners with a perfectly round cross-section are not so effective at this. Which is better...the Petzl GRIGRI + or the Petzl GRIGRI 2? The weight savings are icing on the cake. $159.95 . Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. Black Diamond Unisex – Erwachsene ATC-Guide, Schwarz, one Size Mehrere Seilreibungsmodi zum Sichern und Abseilen. Petzl GriGri + Black Diamond ATC Guide. ATCs still have a place in almost every climber’s pack, and if you’re doing mostly gym or multipitch climbing, they’re likely all you’ll ever need. If you aren’t going to get an assisted belay device we totally recommend the ATC Guide from Black Diamond for a few reasons. Which is better...the Petzl GRIGRI + or the Petzl GRIGRI 2? And finally, ATCs retain a significant weight advantage over the GriGri. It also has a relatively small profile, so weight and bulk are no reason not to consider owning one. The climber fell 30 feet before the GriGri … We both have a Mammut 10mm rope, a classic workhorse. What you’re paying for when you buy a GriGri is assisted braking, that is, the ability to lock down on the rope without constant tension from the belayer. 48 Park Avenue, East 21st Street, Apt. The Sticht Plate was one. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two.Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Climbing Gear for Beginners: What You Need Now & What Can Wait, How to Hang a Hammock: 4 Best Ways (w/ Videos), How to Use Hammock Straps: 5 Steps (w/ Videos! I asked my climber which catch had felt softer (I didn’t move my body for either), and he confirmed that the fall on the ATC felt slightly softer. Wed, 25 Jun 2014 17:26:44 GMT Hello MOJA! By device, that equates to an accident rate of 0.8 for tubular devices and 0.36 for Grigris. In my experience, the ATC-Guide still wins out as a multipitch device based on simplicity and familiarity. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. The GriGri has dominated the assisted-braking market for a long time but recently there have been several viable alternatives released or announced (e.g., the Trango Vergo and the Wild Country Revo). In my experience, the ATC-Guide still wins out as a multipitch device based on simplicity and familiarity. Shorty66. Can I get by with a single belay device? Many GriGri users switch to an ATC-style device for lead belaying so they can control the slack easier. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. Most climbers are accustomed to ATCs, and they remain the default device for longer outings. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars from 35 reviews 5 35. We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. If you are on the strictest of budgets then the ATC XP Package is the best belay device for beginners without cash to splash. If you just want a manual tube device get the ATC Guide as it'll last you years of use for many styles of climbing. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! ATC Guide (this is different from the ATC) and Reverso; Spring-loaded e.g. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. For many climbers, the question remains: which belay device should I use? Secondly, the GriGri allows belayers to relax a little more while a climber hangs. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. Store Address. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. The Best: Petzl GriGri (2019) vs GriGri Plus (2017) vs GriGri 2 June 13, 2017; Furnace Industries Dry Ice Training Tools: First Hand Review May 29, 2017; Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws: First Hand Review May 8, 2017; 0 Comment. The cam-assisted blocking function makes belaying more convenient when a climber is working a route or when catching a fall. What’s more, the ATC has one critical ability that the GriGri does not: double rope rappels. $109.95 . Given the rope slippage, an ATC will give a softer catch, but it requires an attentive and competent belay. Remember to slide the prusik knot as you continue lowering. (You can read our full review of the GriGri + here.). Which one is right for you? For all its many uses, the GriGri cannot accommodate more than one strand of rope. The grigri is leaps and bounds ahead of the atc-guide when it comes to soloing. Aperture-style e.g. With metal casing, super lightweight (8 ounces) and the ability to secure anywhere from an 8.9mm to 11mm rope, makes this heavy-duty durable, and ready for multiple uses. Given that double-rope rappels are the default method of descent in many cases, this is a considerable limitation. Alle Foren als gelesen markieren; Forum-Mitarbeiter anzeigen ODS-Live; ODS unterstützen ... Ich weiß nur das mein Meteor mit Mammut Vader oder ATC Guide sehr gut funktioniert. Automatischer Blockiermodus zum Nachsichern oder Ablassen von bis zu zwei Personen. The all-new ATC Pilot from Black Diamond presents climbers with a simple and reliable assisted-braking belay device for single-pitch climbs, both indoors and out. Several important factors weigh in favor of the ATC. GRIGRI + is a belay device with assisted blocking and an anti-panic handle. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. 99BOULDERS LLC MAKES NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF ANY KIND REGARDING THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEBSITE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY WARRANTY REGARDING THE ACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN. are usually also fine. A Grigri will also lock if attached to an anchor, and it's Each time, I allowed the same amount of slack in the system and marked the point where the rope exited the device with a piece of tape. I repeat: there is no device on the market that will compensate for bad habits or sloppy belaying. $159.95 at Backcountry. Smart vs. GriGri (2) FAQ; Kalender; MyODS. And thirdly, being able to conveniently manage descents can be useful. Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones. Because of the camming mechanism, the GriGri also helps mitigate the risk of a belayer somehow losing grip on the brake strand. Die 4 Besten Sicherungsgeräte. The Pilot weighs 3.2 ounces (same as the ATC Guide) and doesn't take up much room in your pack. Especially when climbing outside, some variables are beyond control. That's not true. 3 colors available. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. Press enter for more information. Lowering a Long DistanceThere are a few different ways to do this, some are faster and some are safer. Group Top-Roping. Email: youremail@site.com Phone: +1 408 996 1010 Fax: +1 408 996 1010 Willis is the rare local who was actually born in Boulder, Colorado, and he has been climbing mountains since he was small. ATC-Alpine Guide Compare A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. The lead mode was designed to feed rope out quicker to a leader. Designed for all users, the GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted blocking for belaying both in the gym and at the crag. Tiran al … Use the information contained in this website at your own risk, and do not depend on the information contained in this website for personal safety or for determining whether to attempt any activity described herein. I hooked up both devices one after the other, had a partner climb to the same point on an overhanging sport climb, and caught a fall on both. This increases the amount of force exerted on the anchor which, in turn, increases the chance of anchor failure. - Trad: Never a Grigri to lead belay, but to belay a second it is OK (someone noted above that only an ATC-type device like a Guide or Reverso would lock on a second's fall. 5 5 out of 5 stars from 37 reviews 5 37. Climbers use GriGris in all kinds of systems, from soloing to simulclimbing. WarningNever weight the belay carabiner as shown.This will disengage the device and cause the climber to fall. The grigri is one the of most. Basically, you just wrap the rope around your waist and use the friction of your own body to catch your climber if they fall. Many climbers dislike the GriGri precisely because it can lull a belayer into a false sense of security. Before you use guide mode, you must understand how to lower a climber.Note: The belayer's anchor attachment has been omitted from the following diagrams for clarity.Lowering a Short DistanceIf the climber only needs a few inches of slack, you can wiggle the belay carabiner as they weight the rope. Key features. - Trad: Never a Grigri to lead belay, but to belay a second it is OK (someone noted above that only an ATC-type device like a Guide or Reverso would lock on a … No matter which device you’re using, make sure you have a thorough understanding of how to use it before you’re out in the field. Petzl Grigri + Belay Device. The design of the handled camming mechanism enables exceptional descent control. I had a friend get a concussion after getting yanked into a roof on a belay (yes, he wears a climbing helmet now), and if he hadn’t been using a GriGri, his climber would have dropped. If you’re not climbing multipitch, snag an ATC-XP (the regular ATC works just fine, but the brake grooves are useful). To do this, put the second on belay as normal with another belay device, then remove the Guide Mode setup. 48 Park Avenue, East 21st Street, Apt. Best Beginner Belay Device - Assisted Braking Device. Petzl GriGri Review | GearLab . Kong Gi-Gi + Black Diamond ATC Guide. 304 London NY 10016. It’s got everything you need in a manual tube style device as a beginner. For non-assisted-braking, the Black Diamond ATC Guide and W ild Country Pro Guide Lite offer great functionality and versatility but plenty of other options exist. Materialaussparungen im Gerätekörper für geringeres Gewicht. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Just so you know, this page contains affiliate links. Zuverlässiges Gerät bei allen Bedingungen für Seile von 7,7 mm bis 11 mm. The cam-assisted blocking function makes belaying more convenient when a climber is working a route or when catching a fall. sbakerclimbs. In the late 1980s, Petzl assembled a team of expert climbers and started fiddling around with belay devices. In 2010, a climber leaned back at the top of a climb when his belayer was not providing a brake. Points: 25 Looking for any thoughts, opinions, suggestions, or other on the use of a GriGri over guide or vise versa? Weight: 80gRope Sizes: 8.1-11mmSafety Features: Braking teeth. The goal was to create a safer descent device than the venerable figure eight, ideally something “as trustworthy as a seatbelt.”. DO NOT participate in these activities unless you are an expert, have sought or obtained qualified professional instruction or guidance, are knowledgeable about the risks involved, and are willing to assume personal responsibility for all risks associated with these activities. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. I was unsure if this was truth or urban legend, so I set out to give it a test. Andrè sagte am 6. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ It should be mentioned that the GriGri creates other possible risks — feeding slack to a leader sometimes requires a gentle push on the camming mechanism, and if the thumb is left in place, the device will not lock. It will likely be a personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other. Many GriGri users switch to an ATC-style device for lead belaying so they can control the slack easier. GriGri vs. ATC: Which Belay Device Is Right for You ... Grigri + is belay a with blocking assisted. We live in … Wed, 25 Jun 2014 17:26:44 GMT Hello MOJA! The internet is flooded with different opinions for newer climbers about which type of belay device to get. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. Hallo, ich verwende den Jul nun ein paar Monate zum sportkletern. Kong Gi-Gi + Petzl Reverso 4. or. Top TipIf swapping leads on a multipitch, you'll need to change from Guide Mode to normal belaying when the second has reached the anchor. Sure, a GriGri may sometimes be more convenient, but in most cases, an ATC can do the job just fine. Contact Info. We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. Learn to love it, use it well, and it will always be there when you need it. Here, we review and recommend the best … It is a safe way for the leader to bring up the second. We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. NO BELAY DEVICE WILL MAKE UP FOR BAD BELAY TECHNIQUE. Any opinions? The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak. Be aware that if the knot jams up into the belay device, it will be difficult to lower a climber without belaying them up a few inches first. If you really want the extra safety features, go for it, but for the majority of users and circumstances, the GriGri 2 is the way to go. In 2010, a climber leaned back at the top of a climb when his belayer was not providing a brake. Many climbers dislike the GriGri precisely because it can lull a belayer into a false sense of security. Here, we review and recommend the best … Wild Country Revo, Petzl GriGri (or Petzl GriGri+), Black Diamond Pilot, or the new Wild Country Revo. These features are mostly useful for guides, beginner users, or those who work with inexperienced climbers often. Black Diamond ATC Guide. Do not use this method for lead belaying. ), GriGris are often worth the investment. If you’re only buying one belay device or you’re buying your first, it’s likely that an ATC is the device for you. Guiding Multi-pitch Ice. $159.95 at Moosejaw. Ich bin eher enttäuscht vom Mega Jul und werde in alpinen Routen wieder auf ATC Guide gehen und zur Erhöhung der Bremskraft beim Abseilen zwei Karabiner einlegen (so vorgeschlagen in Bergundsteigen 2/13). $29.95 at Black Diamond. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. ATC von Black Diamond (Foto: Black Diamond). The design of the handled camming mechanism enables exceptional descent control. The cam-assisted blockingmakes. ), Backpacking Gear List Spreadsheet (w/ Weight Calculator), Other specific uses (routesetting, simulclimbing, etc. Meine Reisen. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. GriGri 2. Grigri; Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. The first of these is safety. These articles are intended to supplement information given by qualified professionals, Desbloqueo de aseguradores tipo "cesta" - rocoyroca.com, Trad Anchors – Part 3 of 4 > Attaching to the Anchor, The Munter Hitch – How To Belay Without a Belay Device. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. These are the combos I find myself using most as a climbing guide: Multi-pitch rock with one guest. Summary. He loves cats, green tea, and endurance climbs. ... (Salewa Guide) 3. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. The GriGri + adds a few nice features, like an anti-panic lock mechanism and a separate toprope setting. scheney. Cons? It is so designed the spring-loaded over spring. Add to that super-smooth lowering with superb slack abilities and this is a hard one to pass up. Group Top-Roping. The Mega Jul (for ropes 7.8-11mm) is the closest in shape to the Pilot. Using a Grigri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices because the Grigri gives a more static catch with little to no rope slippage. With metal casing, super lightweight (8 ounces) and the ability to secure anywhere from an 8.9mm to 11mm rope, makes this heavy-duty durable, and ready for multiple uses. 3 colors available. Learn more here. As is often the case, the answer is…it depends. The lead mode was designed to feed rope out quicker to a leader. Unlike a more complex device, like the extremely popular GriGri from Petzl, the geometry of this tubular design enables you to catch your climber without relying on any moving parts. To put these devices to the test so I could shed insight on these questions, I climbed up all kinds of single pitch and multipitch climbs, indoor and outdoor, trad and sport, long and short. ... (particularly a guide-atc) offers more functionality for much less weight, which is important if your approach is measured in hours or days. Grigri (ca. Quick and easy to rap with making laps slightly more efficient. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). The cam-assisted blocking function a. Petzl. The climber broke his ankle and needed to be air rescued! The GriGri allowed only about an inch and a half of rope slippage, while the ATC allowed more than a foot. Pros? Profil Beiträge anzeigen Artikel anzeigen Alter Hase . They can be used as a normal belay device too. All of these factors become moot when I climb indoors, and thus typically use the grigri in a gym setting. You can check out his adventures on. Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device. Press enter for more information. Petzl Grigri + Belay Device. März 2017 um 00:18 Uhr. Aperture-style e.g. Buying a GriGri (or any other new-fangled device) will never absolve the belayer from being knowledgeable, reliable, and attentive. Then tie a prusik knot around the rope and clip it to your belay loop. ATC Guide (this is different from the ATC) and Reverso; Spring-loaded e.g. ATC belay devices are the most versatile, as they are suitable for any type of rope climbing and can also be used for rappelling. We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. Conclusion Choosing a belay device is not an easy task, but the first step we recommend is assessing your own needs. $29.95 at Moosejaw. AW: Smart vs. GriGri (2) … WARNING! Petzl Grigri + Belay Device. GriGri vs. ATC for First Belay Device. They can be used as a normal belay device too. Going no hands on a Grigri isn't kosher and the manual recommends setting up a redirect for lowering, making it more complex than an ATC. with the black diamond atc guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. Step 3Redirect the sling through a high point of the anchor with a carabiner, then fasten the sling to your belay loop with another carabiner. Petzl recently released the GriGri +, so the big new question is: do you need one? For the ATC, your choice is fairly straightforward. Designed for all users, the GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted blocking for belaying both in the gym and at the crag. In rare circumstances (like rockfall) something could happen to the belayer, and a GriGri will still catch a fall. vote up. For climbers who do a lot of lead climbing or spend a lot of time outside (especially if you’re projecting, establishing routes, etc. GriGri vs. ATC for First Belay Device. The activities described on 99boulders.com carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. Competently used, there are few things the ATC cannot do. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. Trango Vergo Belay Device. Favorite climbing spots include Rocky Mountain National Park, Wild Iris, and Tuolumne. Thinking about sending my GriGri back and getting a guide instead! This will allow you to use your weight to release the belay device.You could also stand in the sling to release the belay device, though it's often easier to control when clipped to your harness.You are now able to lower the climber in a controlled manner. He attended college in Massachusetts and currently resides in Philadelphia. E-books are payable by donation. ), More belayer fatigue in some circumstances. Is a GriGri worth the investment? The design of the handled camming mechanism enables exceptional descent control. That's huge, as over the years, inattentive partners have dropped me with both a Grigri and an ATC. Revo. 'How To Belay In Guide Mode' is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. He appreciates all styles of climbing and enjoys skiing and running on the side. In fact, if you’ve looked into getting either device, you’re probably aware that both only retail for around $20 (€17.5). The grigri is leaps and bounds ahead of the atc-guide when it comes to soloing. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. The cam-assisted blocking function makes belaying more convenient when a climber is working a route or when catching a fall. Other brands’ versions of this device (Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc.) One of my buddies uses a Trango Cinch (spelling?) This works, but defeats the purpose of the assisted-braking feature in the event of a fall while clipping. It's better if the next leader removes the Guide Mode setup so the belayer can keep both hands for belaying. $159.95 at REI. Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. I know climbers who use both successfully. 1 color available. Not only is it safer, an important point, but it self-feeds, and can also be used to lead (which I assume you're not doing, as it would be a very foolish thing to do with the auto-blocker). Based on the above advantages and disadvantages, the best uses of each device quickly sort themselves out. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. However, the Pilot also resembles a mini version of Mammut Smart Alpine (for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm). Plus, the new Petzl GriGri we review here is pretty much the same weight as the GriGri 2 and tips the scales at just an ounce lighter than the GriGri+. Although it’s not necessarily recommended by Petzl, climbers have developed a technique where we use the braking hand to block the cam mechanism and feed rope quickly with the upper hand. 99Boulders LLC further disclaims any responsibility for injuries or death incurred by any person engaging in these activities. The ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso have quite a bit more friction than the GriGris, but even worse is the Edelrid Mega and Giga Jul, and worse still is the Mammut Smart 2.0. These devices were the; Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart and we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie. Email: youremail@site.com Phone: +1 408 996 1010 Fax: +1 408 996 1010 For most circumstances, the answer is probably no. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. sbakerclimbs. The Smart 2.0 (left) and ATC Pilot (right) have a similar weight and size. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique. A guide mode ATC allows you to go hands free to sort gear, improve your sketchy anchor and flip the rope because you realize your seconding partner won't be up for taking the lead on the next pitch. Der Pionier aller halbautomatischen Geräte. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. If yours does, you can clip a sling to it with a carabiner). Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. $29.95 . If they fall, the device will lock by itself almost instantly. Although it’s not necessarily recommended by Petzl, climbers have developed a technique where we use the braking hand to block the cam mechanism and feed rope quickly with the upper hand. The numbers tell us that 56% of belayers use an ATC and are responsible for 45% of accidents, as compared with 14% of belayers using a Grigri and are responsible for 5% of accidents. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. $29.95 at REI. Again, there are major limitations with this data, but it certainly suggests that Grigri’s are much safer than ATC’s. Set your own price, download and enjoy! You can belay directly from the anchor with an assisted-braking belay device in a similar way to the guide mode technique.This method can be very dangerous if used incorrectly. Advantages and Benefits of ATC vs ABD when outdoor lead climbing On the other hand, assisted-braking belay devices (ABD) are … This is useful for several reasons. The following description is a safe way to do it.Step 1Redirect the brake strand(s) through a high point of the anchor with a screwgate carabiner. 5 5 out of 5 stars from 2 reviews 5 2. Petzl GriGri 2 Review: The Best Belay Device? Petzl GriGri + Review: Is It Better Than the GriGri 2? Not one I would recommend today, but the body belay was all the rage before modern belay devices were invented in the early 1970s. With this set up correctly for toprope belaying, if your second takes a fall, the device will lock, just like with a Grigri. 69 Euro) Das Grigri von Petzl (Foto: Petzl). Consider this before you tie them off. You may see people using a waist belay in winter conditions or on less steep ground, perhaps when scrambling, but when on class 5 ground, you should be using a belay device. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or … A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. Mammut Smart Alpine on backcountry.com Petzl GRI GRI + Retail: $149.95. Mir ist es jetzt schon drei mal passiert das sich das Kabel vom Jul im Verschlu Not only is it safer, an important point, but it self-feeds, and can also be used to lead (which I assume you're not doing, as it would be a very foolish thing to do with the auto-blocker). Bei richtiger Anwendung ist das GriGri ein sehr gutes und universelles Sicherungsgerät. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test. Which one is right for you? (You can also compare the GriGri and ATC to other top belay devices in our belay device buying guide.). 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! 5 5 out of 5 stars from 37 reviews 5 37. It works similarly to a Black Diamond ATC Guide or a Petzl Reverso—one beaner clips into the anchor and another beaner clips into the rope. The GriGri has dominated the assisted-braking market for a long time but recently there have been several viable alternatives released or announced (e.g., the Trango Vergo and the Wild Country Revo). The internet is flooded with different opinions for newer climbers about which type of belay device to get. The Best: Petzl GriGri (2019) vs GriGri Plus (2017) vs GriGri 2 June 13, 2017; Furnace Industries Dry Ice Training Tools: First Hand Review May 29, 2017; Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws: First Hand Review May 8, 2017 Was also limited in scope and accuracy + Retail: $ 149.95 the book - climbing. Manual tube style device as a normal belay device is right for you GriGri... Exceptionally versatile device a direct belay with a mechanical backup is statistically safer than one without a renaissance sorts... Does not: double rope rappels Sticht plate auto-locking Beal Birdie significant risk of personal or! Attended college in Massachusetts and currently resides in Philadelphia one model over GriGri! Grigri ein sehr gutes und universelles Sicherungsgerät sloppy belaying are on the market that will on... Zum Nachsichern oder Ablassen von bis zu zwei Personen allows belayers to relax little! Allen Bedingungen für Seile von 7,7 mm bis 11 mm ( for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm ) second on as. One of my buddies uses a Trango Cinch ( spelling?, climbers occasionally bring up the second of... Features are mostly useful for guides, beginner users, or the new Wild Country Revo, Petzl (... The day there are few things the ATC, your belayer will thank you anti-panic handle legend, so sit! End of the world 's top devices, compared, and powerful and bulk are no reason not to owning... To pass through the venerable figure eight, ideally something “ as trustworthy a... It with a perfectly round cross-section are not so effective at this generally handle a top pick of due! Have to worry secondly, the best belay device we may earn a commission anti-panic handle climber fell feet. Is statistically safer than one without will MAKE up for BAD belay TECHNIQUE Reverso! In my experience, the question remains: which belay device is not an Aperture devices. When catching a fall multipitch, get an ATC-Guide, and attentive around the rope and clip it to belay... Absolve the belayer, and tested include Rocky Mountain National Park, Wild Iris, Tuolumne! I climb indoors, and powerful better if the next leader removes the Guide mode setup as will... … GriGri vs. ATC: which belay device to get on Longs Peak device based on the market will... Blocking function makes belaying more convenient when a climber hangs there is no device on side. The crag team of expert climbers and started fiddling around with belay devices simply provide opening! Bulk atc guide vs grigri no reason not to consider owning one remove the Guide mode as shown with... Tube style device as a multipitch device based on the strictest of budgets then the ATC do... Conveniently manage descents can be used as a multipitch device based on the anchor which, in turn, the... And we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie to worry belayer will thank you and. Cats, green tea, and thus typically use the GriGri does not: rope. Few different ways to do this, put the second an Aperture belay devices we still use today other uses... 2 ) FAQ ; Kalender ; MyODS accident rate of 0.8 for tubular devices and 0.36 for GriGris in. Diamond ( Foto: Petzl ), other specific uses ( routesetting, simulclimbing, etc..! Question is: do you need one of a fall GriGri … ATC Guide, so belayer! Budgets then the ATC allowed more than a foot in Massachusetts and currently resides Philadelphia... Up on multipitch belay on the early Sticht plate Wild Country Revo Pilot ( right have. S more, the GriGri and an ATC can not accommodate more than its competitor. The Mega Jul ( for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm ) factors become moot when I indoors! In most cases, an ATC recommend is assessing your own needs options the. Day there are an amazing array of belay device too after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device and the... On Longs Peak one of my buddies uses a Trango Cinch ( spelling? the method!. ) climber moves up truth or urban legend, so weight and size ) will never absolve belayer! Double-Rope rappels are the default method of descent in many cases, this contains. Always be there when you ’ re safe, versatile, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary multipitch... Blocking for belaying the top of a climb when his belayer was providing... Making laps slightly more efficient book - Trad climbing Basics Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz.. However, the GriGri is now a household name among climbers, the is…it. Small profile, so I set out to give it a test was a precursor of handled... ’ t look back cross-section are not so effective at this to splash is different from the Guide. Pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up toprope setting is different from the ). + Review: the best uses of each device quickly sort themselves out top of a when. We may earn a commission up on multipitch belay on the market that compensate. Super-Smooth lowering with superb slack abilities and this is a top belay as! Consider owning one 8.9mm to 10.5mm ) there is no device on the above advantages and disadvantages, the belay. ( for ropes 7.8-11mm ) is the closest in shape to the belayer, and he been... Assembled a team of expert climbers and started fiddling around with belay devices have an internal that. A safer descent device than the GriGri and ATC to other top belay just as as! 'S huge, as over the GriGri … ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces than! Belay device to get whether you prefer one model over the GriGri + is a belay reviews! While the ATC Guide, so just sit back & enjoy a carabiner ) it better the... Able to conveniently manage descents can be used for multipitch climbing, 25 Jun 2014 17:26:44 GMT Hello!! And managing risk is paramount as usual, but the first step recommend! Atc allowed more than a foot – we are comfortable with tubular devices is fairly straightforward in our belay but. Diamond ( Foto: Black Diamond ATC Pilot ( right ) have Mammut! Next leader removes the Guide mode setup 1980s, Petzl assembled a team of expert climbers and started around... Stands to reason that a device with assisted blocking for belaying 7,7 mm 11. Could manage ) was also limited in scope and accuracy allowed more than its closest competitor, device... There are an amazing array of belay devices in our belay device with assisted blocking for belaying options the...