Slant is powered by a community that helps you make informed decisions. The passive assisted devices have some of the poorest lowering action. For easy multi-pitching, many climbers may not need braking assist. 5.0 out of 5 stars Outstanding belay device. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. The brilliance is that the device functions exactly like a simple tube, and the belayer uses the same simple belay technique they were taught when they learned. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, and Giga and Mega Juls. … Best of all, the Mega Jul locks down on the rope in the event of a fall because the locking carabiner pinches the rope into a notch in the device. The thinnest single ropes on the market today are only 8.5mm (! The lower arm now has a bit more play, making it slightly harder to simply open full. It is rated for rope diameters between 7.8mm and 10.5mm, covering most half and single ropes and all but the thinnest twin ropes. This model is also heavier and more expensive than the standard model. ADD TO CART . The cam-assisted blocking function makes belaying more convenient when a climber is working a route or when catching a fall. While the GriGri is far and away the most popular active assisted braking device on the market, it still comes with the notable downside that one must lock open the braking cam to quickly feed slack to a leader, a design that has inspired countless competitors searching for better methods. It also easily accommodates two strands of rope, making it ideal and versatile for rappelling — a huge bonus. He has also spent countless days perfecting his rock craft at classic sport and traditional areas such as Eldorado Canyon, Rifle, Smith Rock, and Yosemite, while authoring and publishing numerous guidebooks along the way. To save a lot more weight on my rack than just switching to the GriGri 2 (which I'm more used to using anyway), I use the brake-assist Edelrid Mega Jul, which is merely 65 grams, works with two ropes, and it "works best with ropes that are between 8.9 to 10mm," as … Trouver ce baudrier au meilleur prix. In this sense the Mega Jul is like a Grigri and great for belaying people working projects. These devices can also be hard to master for people with small hands, which may include children. (Yes, there are some other cool belay devices out there, such as the Edelrid Mega Jul that are perhaps designed to do this a little better, but if you already have an older rappel device you're happy with, this can be a nice new trick for the toolbox.) Slant is powered by a community that helps you make informed decisions. The Giga Jul awesomely negates that need, by incorporating passive assist braking with standard tube-style functionality (what they call "manual" mode), combined with auto-block, for the most versatile belay device we have seen. Order-No. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. 4 years ago. The Revo does not in any way assist with braking, but simply provides an emergency backup, the first device that we are aware of that works in this manner. Like most of us, his passion was kindled in the climbing gym, but soon carried him outside after beholding the mighty Diamond on Longs Peak, and deciding he needed to up his game enough to climb it. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. As more and more climbers transition to thinner ropes, this is becoming slightly less of an issue, but once again, added versatility in regard to rope sizes only increases the value of a belay device. Con. But in the event that the belayer would let go of the break strand, the device will assist in holding the fall but it is not as solid as the grigri. They have all loved the cost, assisted brake, versatility, and lightweight nature of the jul vs the grigri. The second feature is a toggle switch between lead and top-rope modes, which adjusts the spring tension on the cam inside the device. These twelve climbing harnesses have been designed... We pick the best rock climbing shoes for bouldering... We've weeded through dozens of climbing shoes to select to... After analyzing over 50 harnesses, we bought the best 12... Best GriGri Alternative that Feeds Slack Easier, Auto Block (Resistance Belaying a Second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The result is expert tested reviews and recommendations, rather than just a listing of a product's stats that anyone can glean off the internet. I found the Mega Jul works smoothly with carabiners constructed with a rounded stock, like Black Diamond's Mini Pearabiner or Petzl's Attache. This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. SLATE. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. Edelrid. As with most great things, there are a few downsides. "stiff ropes feed very poorly. 16 | Petzl – Grigri, Meteor Helmet, Dart Crampons, and Swift RL First released in 2017, the GriGri+ has several safety features not found on the standard GriGri, hopefully reducing the risk of belayer error accidents. If you pull back too far or too quickly the device will stop lowering. What we like: We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. Second best when it comes to this category are most of the "passive" assisted braking devices, like the Edelrid Giga Jul, Mammut Smart 2.0, and Black Diamond ATC Pilot. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. Whether the weight is a critical component for you depends on a few things: whether or not you are climbing with your device on your harness, and whether or not you appreciate the "training" weight in your backpack. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. Top rope belaying with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. Lastly, while Trango makes it clear in all its instructional documentation and training videos, it is easy to accidentally clip the Vergo into the harness the wrong way, which diminishes the amount of friction a leader puts on the catch cam. Pull upwards, in the direction that a climber would, and the cam uses friction to automatically lock up. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Of course, every belay device here will catch a fall by arresting the rope provided they are used with proper technique, but due to their unique designs, the assisted braking devices tend to do this with more reliability, and far less effort, than a standard tube-style device. The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. We also teach other climbers and partners how to use each device, and watch them learn and belay in order to notice problems, flaws, or benefits that we may have missed. Lowering a climber safely and smoothly to the ground with the anti-panic handle of the GriGri+. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. With no moving parts and a wide range of rope diameters (8.9—11mm), the Jul provides assisted-braking capability that every tester lauded for its reliable and soft catch. Lead belays and top rope laps on a sunny winter afternoon at Smith Rock. It costs less and weighs less than a Grigi, and unlike that device it can be used with double ropes, so what's not to like? Answering these questions will help you determine if the investment in an active assist device is worth it, or whether you might prefer a passive assist device instead. NOMBRE DE CORDES : Une. This category includes devices such as the Trango Jaws and the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Soft and supple skinny ropes don't lock as abruptly. POIDS : 186 Gr. The Edelrid Eddy and Mad Rock Lifeguard have more friction, which makes it challenging to pay rope out quickly. Some tension in the rope through the device is actually required to ensure it locks- this means never letting go of the brake strand. Anyone who has an older model of the GRIGRI can surely notice wear in that area. We believe that all types of climbers can benefit from knowing how to use a GriGri, and recommend the + especially for those new to the game. The final consideration for this metric is the range of rope diameters that a belay device is capable of gripping. Made of steel* instead of aluminum, the Mega Jul shaves some weight (10-15%) off popular tube-style devices, and weighs 61% less than the GriGri. Lustre recommends the best products at their lowest prices – right on Amazon. The design of the handled camming mechanism enables exceptional descent control. The ATC Guide is also slightly heavier than its closest and most popular competition, the Petzl Reverso, but we think the extra durability is worth adding a couple tenths of an ounce. 22 Recommendations. 7 Essential Knots You Need To Know - Duration: 7:46. Be sure to read the Camp Matik manual carefully to learn how to properly belay with it. Searching for the best climbing belay device? We often find them jerky when compared to tube devices. Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. I know companies today shy away from the word “auto-locking” but Mega Jul certainly does a great job of braking a fall with very little effort. The engineers at Edelrid worked hard to solve many of the problems with the older device, and the result has quickly become our favorite belay device for multi-pitch climbing. The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted braking device that has long been the gold-standard for this genre, seen at crags and gyms all over the world. The Mega Jul has become my go-to belay device. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. 0 Recommendations. The Mega Jul has become my go-to belay device. It is also designed in a way that it cannot be loaded backwards, so no need to continually check for little hand and climber icons. Compared to most devices, it is heavy and on the larger side, but not prohibitively so. The most versatile ever belay device. In 2019, Petzl updated the most popular assisted braking device in the world for a third time, releasing the newest version, now simply known (once again) as the GriGri. I'm in need of a belay device and locking carabiner, and also a helmet. Unfortunately, though, belaying in this manner can create substantial friction with many of the device designs that can exhaust a belayer's shoulders and elbows, and in extreme usage, like for mountain guides, can lead to tendonitis. Here are some observations about general usability, relative to a Mega Jul, Grigri 2, and DMM Pivot. Ropes on the narrow side can slip through some belay devices due to there not being enough friction if the design doesn't take narrow ropes into consideration. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an innovative belay device. Has anyone used either of these guys' kit and could recommend it? The easiest belay device to use incorrectly. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. Helpful. The cam spring is a bit tighter, making it easier to pay out slack ATC-style, and the area on the back of the cam where you might hold your thumb to pay out slack is now lower profile as well, reducing the risk of holding this open when a leader falls. Assisted-Braking Mode: When belaying a leader off the harness, I usually use the Giga Jul in assisted-braking mode. Although the assisted braking models all provide the ability to lock the device and rest hands-free, they often exhibit narrow ranges and jerkiness when lowering. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. However, descending yourself or climbers from above a climb can be almost impossible without an additional small nose carabiner as a handhold for leverage so as long as you are ok with bringing additional gear then this device can work great for you. These devices are unquestionably safer for lowering partners, but can also be perceived as more annoying to use. Next, consider what techniques you already know, or what techniques or resources you have for learning a new belay style. I'm avaliable to get good prices on both of their kit. Active – e.g. Half ropes in the 8-8.5 range DO NOT LOCK FULLY with the proper edelrid strike biner" https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/6aoipn/nonjerky_method_for_rapping_with_mega_jul_in/dhh1vvx/, Video demonstration with stories of it happening in the comments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=385cP_FYNEs. These devices require substantial strength on the brake hand when catching a fall and continued lock-off when top rope belaying or belay your second. As you can see, the Vergo is a bit smaller than either of the GriGris, but it weighs the same amount as the heavier GriGri+. He bases himself out of Ouray, Colorado, an ice climbing mecca, but which also has great cragging and quick access to many of the West's finest destinations and most stunning mountains. From left to right, Camp Figure 8, Black Diamond ATC, Edelrid Mega Jul, Petzl GriGri. A new belay device can cost anywhere from the price of a case of beer up to the price of a new rope! If the belayer is hit by a rock, slammed into the wall, or the rope somehow slips out of their grip, a falling climber will hit the deck in about one second. Fersilmach85. That's where lowering and rappelling come in. It does not engage until the rope passes through the device at a velocity greater than 4 meters per second or roughly 10cm of slack. Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types and are often easily preventable. Feed out slack to the side as recommended, a method that allows one to pay out longer loops of slack with one arm, and the cam stays open. I think this will be especially helpful for those new to using GRIGRIs. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Belaying a second directly off the anchor is a convenient way to ensure a reliable catch and a comfortable belay during multi-pitch climbing (be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully, as this type of belay configuration is more complex and mistakes can result in death). This is due to the wheel that the rope runs over, which greatly minimizes friction. It's my understanding that the death grip won't be prevented; what will be prevented is if the lever arm is pulled down too rapidly. 9.7 and above ropes feed poorly for lead belay. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. Let us know! The sweet spot for a smooth, not too slow lower can be hard to find at first, but it's now much harder to drop a climber while lowering with a properly loaded GriGri+. Despite the minor downsides, the Vergo is far and away our favorite active assisted braking device that isn't a GriGri. In 2019, Petzl released the GriGri, which is an update to the old GriGri 2, which is no longer in production. Impossible to hold large falls even with correct technique if this occurs, as there is little to no friction when the cam is open. These tweaks are minor, but positive changes that only make this device function better. Retrouvez en détail les remboursements générés par médicament en France. As the quality of rope manufacturing has increased, climbers are far more frequently using thinner ropes, with 8.9mm-9.2mm being much more common, and 9.5mm now being considered a reasonably fat "workhorse." want it own it ... Keep in mind this is NOT a grigri. This category measures and rates how easy it is to catch a fall with a belay device. Andy is a lifelong climber, with over 24 years of experience in all disciplines. Edelrid Mega Jul – these belay devices don’t have any moving parts like the active forms. Impossible >9.8mm and disappointing below. Helpful. The active assisted braking devices have some of the more complex methods for giving slack quickly, and each features a different method. Weights range from 2.0 to 13.0 ounces. We hope the information provided has been helpful in your search. Edelrid Mega Jul. It is designed with a cam mechanism to assist the braking. It feels similar to lowering with a Grigri 2. I own and use both the Grigri 2 and the Mega Jul, I would highly recommend the the Girgir 2 over the Mega Jul for all belaying purposes. You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. When it comes to something you're likely carry on your harness, the Edelrid MegaJul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. The low end of the price range is populated by tube-style devices, whereas the more expensive models are the active assisted braking devices. The design of the handled camming mechanism enables exceptional descent control. Belaying with the ClickUp+ on a peaceful afternoon in the sun at Smith Rock. Belay devices by weight: Negatives aside, the emergency backup performed perfectly in all of our testing, and every climber who tested it was amazed at its ease and simplicity to learn. The Revo is a perfect device for any single pitch climbing, and was a surprise favorite of all who used it due to its simplicity and super smooth handling. Of course, we pretty much always belay up the second in auto-block mode. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. NON-ASSISTED BREAKING. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. In the question "What are the best belay devices?" The devices featured here are of three main styles: active assist braking, passive assist braking, and tube-style, so be sure to identify your own needs to help you narrow down the selection. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. It takes some practice to dial in the sweet spot for the devices with anti-panic handles. Mega Jul Sport. Helpful. While this is to prevent someone from accidentally dropping themselves or their partner, it creates a narrow window between lowering and locking up. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. In this special Gear Guide edition of Beer and Gear, Delaney and Francis take a look at some new gear from Petzl—the Grigri, the Dart crampons, the Meteor helmet, and the Swift RL headlamp. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. If the user pulls too hard on the handle, the … The principle downside to this device is that it can only be used with a single rope, much like most active assist devices such as the GriGri, somewhat limiting its appropriateness for multi-pitching. And the biggest hurdle to usage of the GriGri+ is that it can be challenging to learn to use properly and safely, an argument many die-hard ATC users cite as the reason they avoid the GriGri, to begin with. For the passive devices, we like the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Mammut Smart 2.0 the best. With an assisted braking device, whether passive or active, the slightest amount of gripping pressure on the brake rope will provide the tension and friction required to lock up the device, holding the climber in place. Consequently, it is also freakishly thin. Click Up Vs GriGri - Battle Of The Belay Devices | Climbing Daily Ep.1143 - Duration: 12:00. T he Petzl GRIGRI first appeared in 1991 and since then has pretty much been the market leader in assisted-braking belay devices. In "active" models, braking is created by a pinching mechanism inside the device itself; "passive" models rely on a pinch between the carabiner and the device to hold the rope. Its most endearing feature revolves around safety: it is not possible to lock out the catch cam mechanism, like on the GriGri. Mani the Monkey 239,279 views. Like any other device, good belaying technique is required. Edelrid Belay Device and Carabiner vs others. We rate each device for critical performance elements such as how smooth it feeds slack, how effective it is rappelling and lowering, and how aggressively it bites the rope when catching falls. Tube devices require the simplest motion to take or feed slack and receive the best scores in this category because of it. On the upper end of the scale, ropes over 9.8mm, especially ones that are worn a bit, so they are fuzzy, create extra friction that can make it hard to easily force them through a belay device quickly. Which brings up another important consideration in this category: how easy it is to hold a climber locked off. Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. It is possible to open this handle way too far, without a hand on the brake rope, and suddenly drop the climber to the ground. Each device tested for this review was thoroughly researched before being put into use, and this often involves watching Youtube and demonstration videos to grasp the proper technique for belaying with newfangled devices. Both of the GriGris are also now capable of handling ropes down to 8.5mm. Both of the GriGris performed especially well in this regard, as did the Camp Matik. Can be used in 2 orientations, for rappelling with or without brake assist, and can add a carabiner for lever action, making it similar to a GriGri. The mega jul probably does everything you want, but the consensus is that it doesn't do everything as well as a grigri and a reverso or atc guide combo. The new kid on the block. The primary downside of all ATC or tube-style belay devices is that a firm grip is required on the brake strand of the rope at all times. Lowering a climber in brake assist mode can be a bit jerky, so we mostly prefer this device for multi-pitching, and use something else for our daily cragging. A voir : toutes les photos de ce comparatif : Peugeot 308 GTi vs. Renault Mégane 4 RS; Bilan. The new kid on the block. As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. Devices that lock up on a hair trigger are very difficult to master, and are the cause of many frustrated lead climbers as they are continuously short-roped by their belayer. The devices that reliably catch like this are the Camp Matik, as well as the GriGri and GriGri+, and they received the highest scores. 88 g. US$ 34.95 ( 4.4 avg ) Rate. We begin the testing process by using each device for months in the field, and then finish up by comparative testing each device side-by-side, rating them on five metrics (catch and bite, feeding slack, rappelling and lowering, weight and bulk, and auto-block) based upon how they perform compared to the competition. To save a lot more weight on my rack than just switching to the GriGri 2 (which I'm more used to using anyway), I use the brake-assist Edelrid Mega Jul, which is merely 65 grams, works with two ropes, and it "works best with ropes that are between 8.9 to 10mm," as … Of course, like all assisted belay devices, a new technique must be learned and mastered to be an effective belayer, especially for leading. I prefer the Jul2 to the Grigri for lead belaying, as the movement to 'unlock' the device to feed rope is easier than the Grigri--pushing my entire right arm upwards, as opposed to gripping the Grigri with my thumb, which is more tiring. 2019 saw the long-awaited release of the Edelrid Giga Jul, an updated version of the Mega Jul. A lead climbing belay requires more attentiveness and rope management skill than a top-rope belay. Both the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Petzl Grigri are assisted-braking devices. Unlike a more complex device, like the extremely popular GriGri from Petzl, the geometry of this tubular design enables you to catch your climber without relying on any moving parts. The Grigri, Smart, Click Up, and Mega Jul are all going to be better devices. Into this category measures and rates how easy it is not a GriGri Sport provides assisted-braking for. We have ever tried | Personal experience | review - Duration: 17:48 from! 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So having a belay device that is n't a GriGri and great for a... Making them a compelling option instead 308 GTi vs. Renault Mégane 4 RS ; Bilan and give quickly. En DE US FR ( mega jul vs grigri ) Mega Jul Sport is the major difference in the versus! A fantastic price, this is due to the Jul, so having a belay device scores in category! Most well-known active assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be used with two and! Challenging to learn how to belay and lower with than a top-rope belay Figure 8, Diamond! So having a belay device reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions belay a second the. Used properly and paired with an automatic advantage in this category measures and rates how easy it is with. Favorite catches, and rate the best scores in this category, although are! Brakes and stops the descent appeared in 1991 and since then has pretty much been market. 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