This will give better insulating power than R-11, and does not add to the cost of the structure. If so how does it figure into this? Incidentally it's 1 1/2 inches thick. *My guess is the same as Rich , with an added thought the grass is many thin leaves that cool very fast , if you had thin blades of concrete it would more than likely have dew on it. *JRS. Maybe someone has a good technic they could share. Granted, we DID start the New Year with snow, a very rare treat, or trial depending on your view. It's not the thickness that counts, it's how well you use the space you've got.I don't think that cellulose is very widely used, even though it's talked about alot on Breaktime because of a few people who feel pretty strongly about it. We use 2x6 wall here and then add 1/2" to 1 1/2" rigid on the outside, (here being Alberta, Canada). This is for the racking strength you were mentioning and it is also code here. *I am from a humid area and dew does collect on concrete. Glad to see that you are interested in the details of how these things are determined. I am remodeling a house with 2x4 stud walls now that i opened them up i need to upgrade the insulation to 2009 building code standards R19. *State of the art? I also know that every other guy out there doin it is a hacker, just tryin to make a buck, and your number one carp ain't the guy you want stuffin insul and fightin with poly.A system that doesn't depend upon state of the art installation is probably going to save a considerable amount of deterioration in the majority of applications. *Jim and Andrew,Glad you guys are enjoying the physics end of it.But I think you are missing an important distinction. I forgot to mention that the staggered 2x3 wall is less costly than the same wall built with 2x6 studs. In the case of using this scheme for an exterior wall, you'd only have a continuous wood from the interior to exterior on the horizontal plates and at windows/doors. Code Compliance IRC R703.4 and R703.7 Wind Resistance The code compliance is achieved through the prescriptive IRC code provisions for wind speeds below 110 mph (2012 IRC). I don't know how they could do it, but not accounting for air infiltration makes the results incomplete, as far as the total benefit of different insulation thicknesses. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." Air leakage through the outlet boxes had been bad enough to draw bits of fiberglass in and to leave star-shaped dirt marks on the wall around the outlet wallplate. We are seeing a lot of sense in allowing wall cavities to breath. I know how careful I am, and how much time it takes to do it right. Does all the warm moist air just pass through it? You explain yourself well, and have an open mind, and obviously have thought this through much farther than I have. That said, I'm going back and forth with using 2x4 framing vs. 2x6 and would love any input on disadvantages of the narrower wall. Is that your argument in a nutshell? They pulled the triggers and could regulate the feed rate so that it was a continuous sound. "I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. Youm won't drive a baseball through this wall. Because 2x4 studs are standard in home construction, the 2x6 size will almost always be considered an upgrade in the new construction process. Even then windows leak like a seive, no matter what you do. Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion. If you live south of Austin, then a 2 x 6 wall design is very practical, and very easy to do. The higher R value of PUR may offset the cost (plus the gained square footage of the thinner walls with PUR). How many days like that do you get? I mean, it COMPLETELY fills them. Using a design standard 7.5 mph wind, the air inleakage for 2x6 with r-19 fg batts, compared to 2x4 with r-11/13 is about half. I joke around and tell tales sometimes, but this stuff is for real. As for the single stud 2x3 wall, it can achieve an R-value of R-24.5 with sprayed in polyurethane foam (PUR) and 1-inch of RFBI on the exterior. Joe H. The Kansas City BS and Beer discussion group invited Christine Williamson and Justin Fink to brainstorm how to bring building science to the masses. The difference then, between the two is too small to justify the added cost of the 2x6 and the necessary extended jambs. . The preferred method is to sheath the wall with structural sheets (OSB, ply ) and apply the rigid insulation on top of that. Sounds good on paper to me though (no pun intended).Steve, *Hey Steve - Glad you found this, I've been giving it a lot of thought. Was to get more insulation in the walls. Cellulose's problem may be that it is TOO cheap and generic -- not enough profit to be made by pushing it. My 1999 build is 2x6 exterior construction. While the rest of the country (save perhaps AZ and FL) groan for an end to winter we have been in the high 70’s and 80’s for all but a few weeks. board? GeneL. As far as lacking experience with this stuff, that is of little matter to me. *OK, andrew, man, let's focus on one issue at a time, OK? There are thousand of houses in OK that have sand covered attic insulation brought in through wind turbine--whirrly bird--vents. Start your subscription today and save up to 52%. What is 2x6 construction? 3000 sq.ft, 2-story home w/ natural gas in Seattle. When did the building code first require safety/tempered glass for sliding glass doors, glass shower doors, and low windows in walking areas? the only homes that maybe framed with 2x4 have a layer of extruded polyurethane on them for extra insulation. Andrew is correct. It all depends on the scale. There is a lot of good information here that you all have posted and some that isnt quite as accurate, at least from what my instructor, an AIA registered architect has presented to us. Also, i curingconcrete gives off heat as part of it's curing process. Thus a 20ft 2X6 would weigh 40 lbs. *Steve. Looks like cotton and doesn't have the loose fibers. Since the spaces in FG are so large molecularly you would not get the same benefit.Ron. I'm in Montana's high desert and get minus 40 Winters and 105 Summers, usually. http://www.askthebuilder.com/cgi-bin/column?217, The Blower Door: Why Isn't It Called the Sucker Door? - jb. Huge compared to cellulose? By the time you read this you will have received my e-mail. Steve B. Because I was raised with both systems ( showing my age ) us older chippys do mix it. *Hi Jim,I think it's fine to keep the thread going here. Great stuff. They are still standaing. I wanted to acknowledge that i read your post. He keeps the house at abour75 degrees. On a typical wall framed 16 inches on centre, 32 feet long, the 2 inch lumber will add up to 37.5 inches or just under 10%. To answer how 16 inch centers became a standard spacing for wall studs, you have to look at how framing houses has evolved. . The others say it’s not worth it. With the 1 1/2 of air (styrofoam) between the sheeting and the 2x4 or 6 studs it takes a lot less force for the house to rack the nails twist and bend not sheer off. In this episode of Shop Class, learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. If it "needs" poly, though, it sounds like it can't contain moisture well.I hope a cel guru drops by ... it does settle in the attic, but you could always throw more up there & exceed your intended thickness by enough that it came out right. Re: when/why did north american 2x4 framing lumber become standardised at 1-1/2 x 3x1 I didn't read the document and I wasn't around when Hoover was president. If you are interested in HVAC systems, I can recommend some very good ones to you. There was a few reasons that I was told for it. That is hard on the system, not to mention the power bill. Obviously then, the difference between the two is too small to justify the added cost of 2x6s--even 24-inces oc--and the extended jambs. Looks to me like the piggy in the straw house was smarter than we thought... As a practical matter, when calculating the overall R value for wood stud walls, the standard is to use 80% of the insulation R value. Again, the one application it fit great for us was retrofit -- if I removed an outlet or otherwise made a hole, it was enough to insulate the wall using DIY equipment. However say we are standing a frame and need to nudge it along a little we revert to imperial! it's dead simple with a table saw, and a tape measure. Bumpersticker: Honk if you see something fall off. For heating, air infiltration rates are very important (the energy required to heat air from -15 to 70 can be greater than heat loss through wall, several times over for spaces with more than one wall exposed). good point. ;}Also, I think the papers were written in French, and may not come with an English translation. The funny thing is we seem to choose one over the other and overall insulation is left behind. There are many things involved such as finding the movement of outside air and inside air, adding up the r values for everything in your wall (yes everything, even moisture barrier and vapor barrier. price was higher than fiber glass but not out of line when you figure in the better peformance. By the way, I do, now, understand what you were tryin' to tell me about relative humidity in warm air. 1986 Coastal Building Zone and Code yCoastal beach and dune systems were damaged by construction practices yRapid development of coastal land increased risks to the public and local, state and federal governments yThe first engineering design based codes were applied to the coastal rim requiring elevated and wind resistant buildings It's not a whole lot different; like a "regular engine," the crankshaft has different connection points for each cylinder so that each cylinder firing has maximum effect. Those are interesting ideas about the code changes from 2x4 to 2x6 const. Now, what sets the rate of diffusion is mostly is the size of the holes. *Converting here..........thinking...thinking..35mm x 70mm......yep..sounds about right. That's called a radial engine. Two-by-Four construction is by far the most common, and is based on the ubiquitous 2x4. Exterior walls of wood-frame construction shall be designed and constructed in accordance with the provisions of this chapter and Figures R602.3(1) and R602.3(2) or in accordance with AF&PA's NDS. In the BIB system I believe fiberglass has a slightly higher R-value than cellulose, because a higher density fiberglass is used. That's why we use cavity brick most of the time. If you were in a situation where you'd stripped the walls out, there would be a greater variety of insulation strategies to choose from. Diffusion -- that 's the point of breaking the thermal path with offset 2x3s and then mucking things with. Bumpersticker: Honk if you order your doors and windows with the BIB.... Boundaries.I also discovered the temperature on one side of an solid object is sgnificantly higher than fiber glass not. My name is Andy and I think it 's difficult to impossible to DIY it around here centers became standard... 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